After our time in Raufarhöfn, we set off towards Ásbyrgi, a route that is truly challenging. Shortly after starting, we realize that this day will demand everything from us: We rumble along endless bumpy tracks, battle the icy headwind, and pedal past numerous lakes on one side and the sea on the other, all the way to the northernmost point of Iceland. We repeatedly pass stretches of coastline littered with flotsam and jetsam, forcing us to stop more than once. Along the way, we see numerous eider ducks, which, despite the harsh environment, seem surprisingly warm. The wind blows relentlessly against us from the sea, making the route even harder and forcing us to fight our way forward, kilometer after kilometer. We see hardly any houses for miles around and wonder how people must have lived here a hundred years ago.
As we pedal, it dawns on us: this route is once again a symbol of patience. Even during our illness, we faced many paths we walked in solitude, times when it was simply about enduring, and when we felt utterly alone in the depths of our illness. Riding side by side, we look at each other and realize that the other person is probably thinking the same thing: it’s good that we can tackle the challenge of cycling through Iceland together. Together as a team.
For hours we battled against the wind until we finally reached a small ridge. Just then, a light drizzle began, and suddenly the ground beneath us changed: the rock turned ash-black. We rode over volcanic ash, which, made smooth and slippery by the rain, was surprisingly easy to ride on. We rolled down into the valley and finally stopped at a small church to rest and collect ourselves.
From there, it’s not far to the campsite in Ásbyrgi. And what a place it is! Completely soaked and frozen, we roll along the gravel track and find ourselves nestled between towering rock walls in a canyon. In the pouring rain, we pitch our tents among the trees, stretch a tarp over a picnic table, and even discover a drying cabinet where we hang some of our clothes. In our makeshift camp, we make ourselves as comfortable as one can be after a day of rain, wind, and endless kilometers.
