The rain has eased off, we take down our tents and set off in high spirits and highly motivated towards the east. Our destination today is Vopnafjörður, a small town located directly on a fjord. But although the day starts promisingly, we quickly realize that things don’t always go according to plan. We are facing Hellisheiði, the so-called Hell’s Heath, a mountain with an altitude of about 650 meters and a gradient of 15%. We had already thought that the mountain from Seyðisfjörður to Egilsstaðir would test our strength, but after 25 km, we have to admit that we cannot conquer Hell’s Heath. We are disappointed and also a little sad that we have failed a challenge on only the second day. If we can’t continue now, how are we going to manage the next few days? And how are we going to make it all the way to the north if Hellisheiði is our direct route there?
An Australian couple rides past us, stops, and marvels at our bikes. With wide eyes, they ask us if we rode all the way from Seyðisfjörður to here on our bikes, which we confirm. And suddenly it dawns on us: it’s not about accomplishing everything right away. It’s about finding a solution. This reminds us of the time when we were both ill, when there were numerous moments that drained all our energy reserves. Doors were closed before our eyes and paths we had wanted to take were suddenly impassable. But just as we defeated cancer – in our own way – we are also tackling this hellish hill: We let ourselves roll downhill from Landsend, enjoy the fantastic view, and are proud of ourselves for having made it this far. Standing still is not an option, neither during our illnesses nor now in Iceland. We made it to Höllenheidi, even if only partially, but more importantly, we made it to Iceland. Honestly, we are damn proud of ourselves!
On the way back to Svartiskógur, we see our first Icelandic horses, drive past local sheep, and arrive at the campsite in the evening. There we meet Pielow, who has picked up Johanna and Mirja, Jürgen’s daughters, from Höfn, where the two had traveled by bus from Reykjavík. We are all together, the night remains bright, and we know that we will find a solution for Höllenheidi.