We are rapidly approaching our most significant destination yet: the northernmost point of Iceland. It will still take a while before we actually reach the Arctic Circle, but we can already sense that a major milestone lies ahead of us. After a quiet morning in Þórshöfn, we set off for Raufharhöfn, the northernmost settlement on Iceland’s mainland. We pass rocky landscapes where the vegetation becomes increasingly sparse. Not only that, but it also gets significantly colder the further north we travel, windier and, above all, more uncomfortable.
The descent from the pass is accompanied by a breathtaking view of the vast northern plain, where we are even able to ride completely sheltered from the wind for a short time thanks to the mountains surrounding us. Not feeling any wind in Iceland is a strange and unfamiliar feeling for us, as it suddenly becomes very quiet around us. When we spot something red in the distance, we curiously head towards it and discover an elderly Icelandic woman wearing a bright red jacket. She sits in the middle of the heath, smiling cheerfully, waving at us and looking almost like one of the Icelandic mythical creatures we have read about. We wave back in surprise, take a break a little further away, and then see why the woman is so happy: the heath is full of berries. We can’t pass up this opportunity, so we pick some of these berries and fortify ourselves with them. Full of energy, we get back on our bikes and ride along the narrow but quiet road towards Raufarhöfn. The wind picks up again as we get closer to the sea and blows us to the sign for our destination, which we reach feeling infinitely happy.
Raufarhöfn is a major goal and milestone for Jürgen in particular, not only on his trip to Iceland, but also on his journey to recovery. While he had one doctor’s appointment after another, slowly recovered, and had to learn to walk again after his surgeries, he made it his goal to see the Arctic Henge in Raufarhöfn with his own eyes. Now that we have actually arrived at this place, he can hardly put his happiness into words. Reaching this small town by the sea on his own by bike makes him beam so broadly that the sun above us becomes jealous.
Our campsite is relatively sheltered from the wind behind an earth wall and within walking distance of a swimming pool, which we definitely want to visit the next day to warm up. While we lock up our bikes, we unanimously decide that we want to stay at this place for two nights instead of just one, so that we can rest, recharge our batteries, and process our experiences so far in peace.
Sunsets always last a particularly long time in Iceland, and although we are exhausted, frozen, and tired, the Arctic Henge sits enthroned on the mountain in our field of vision, beckoning us to come closer. The uphill hike takes us through the deserted Raufarhöfn, up a straight asphalt road. It takes us half an hour to reach the highest point of the town, where we marvel at the stone arches. Aligned with the cardinal directions, there are four arches around us, with the largest one with four legs in the center. We can clearly feel the vibrations of this place, and at this moment, as the sun slowly sets and bathes the sky in a brilliant orange, we can no longer deny that Iceland is a place full of enchantment, magic, and myths.
